Page 4 - Kencove Fall Winter 2012.pdf

In planning a new fence, the first step is to find the
length. An easy and economical way to measure
footage is to step off a known distance (such as the
length of a barn) and calculate the length of your
average step. You can save time and get a more
accurate measurement by using a measuring wheel.
Draw a rough map of the fence, showing lengths,
gates, ends, corners, and other special terrain
considerations you may have. This is an excellent
visual aid and will go a long way toward keeping
you organized.
Refer to the acreage chart (
for a comparison
of approximate perimeter footage compared to
acreage. Use this chart for educated guessing only.
It is always best to measure the fence line distance
as accurately as possible in order to purchase the
correct amount of materials.
Remember when the fence around a square pasture
is doubled in length, there is four times as much
land inside. An easy way to remember the square
footage in an acre is to remember there are 640
acres in a square mile (5280 ft x 5280 ft divided
by 640 acre = 43560 sq ft / acre). The materials list
The first posts to install are the 5 to 6 inch diameter
measured at the small end) corner and end posts. It
is best to lean the posts 2 to 4 inches away from the
The end and corner posts need to be placed four
feet into the ground, and the lower 1/3 of the hole
should be concreted, if hand set, to keep the post
from lifting out of the hole.
The biggest labor-saving tool is a hydraulic post
driver. Posts are set very quickly and are tight.
Tractor-mounted drivers start at about $2000.00
or more. If you have a lot of fence to build, it will
pay for itself in labor savings alone. Kencove rents
posts drivers to local customers, but you may
have a neighbor willing to rent one to you. Some
contractors are willing to just drive the posts.
Whether it’s the boundary that makes a good
neighbor, a subdivision to control livestock and
protect crops, or to safeguard against predators,
any farmer knows the value of a good fence.
High-tensile fence is an effective, reliable, low-cost
solution. Compared to non-electric fences, you’ll
enjoy savings by using wide post spacings (20 to
feet) and lighter end bracing. Six high-tensile
wires are not easy to get through, are almost
impossible for animals to break, and often last up
to forty years.
Before you begin, check local laws and regulations
pertaining to fencing and locate potential hazards
such as underground utility lines and overhead
electric wires. Make sure the fence path is clear of
brush and debris.
pull of the wire. This will help prevent uplift in the
future. Lifting is the most common problem of end
and corner posts.
Installing the guide wire is next. This will be the
lowest strand of fence wire and serves as a guide
for setting line posts. If you need to carry the coil
of high-tensile wire any distance, set the wire flat
on the ground and step into the center hole. The
coil feels much lighter when you have two hands
holding it, and the weight is centered on your feet.
Place the coil on the spinning jenny and pull out
the starting end of 12.5 gauge wire. Snap locking
pliers onto the end of the wire and walk along the
fence line, being careful to pull at a steady pace
and gradually slow down to stop. You can pull
around several corners without tying it off. Do your
termination by crimping with two C23 sleeves. This
will maintain the full strength of the wire and also
makes a neater connection. We do not recommend
hand-tied knots as they are difficult and up to a
third of the breaking strength of the wire can be
Go back to the end post near the spinning jenny.
Pull the slack out of the wire and cut it so you have
enough to tie the line off at that end post and attach
it, again using crimp sleeves. When you cut H-T
wire, push the cut ends of wire into the ground to
keep the wire from recoiling. Move to the frictional
center of the line.
for our 15 acre, 3280 foot perimeter example fences
have supplies for three corners and two ends. With
more than a half mile of fence, there are two sets of
in-line wire tighteners for each strand.