Page 5 - Kencove Fall Winter 2012.pdf

Pull on the wire to remove slack. Cut the wire then
thread two crimp sleeves onto one wire end. Put the
wire through the hole in the strainer’s strap, bend it
around and insert the end through the other holes
in the crimp sleeves and crimp them. A slight bend
in the wire will facilitate insertion into the crimp
sleeve. The other wire end goes into the hole on the
strainer’s spool. Don’t crimp the wire into the hole
of the spool or put the wire too far through the hole
inch out of the other side is enough). Using your
strainer handle, tighten the wire by turning the
spool (try not to leave so much slack that the spool
is too full.) This is your guide wire for setting the
other posts, so try to make sure it is straight.
First, mark wire spacing on the vertical brace and
end or corner posts. Halfway between the top and
second wire marks, drill a 3/8” hole two inches deep
into the end post and insert the 4” brace pin where
the horizontal post will be. Drill a 2” deep hole
into one end of the horizontal rail. Next drill a hole
through the second vertical brace post for a 9” or
brace pin.
Put the horizontal post onto the
stub of the 4” pin. The 9” pin is then
driven through the second post
into the other end of horizontal
rail. Leave a 2” stub for the second
rail on a double brace assembly.
The 9” pin stub can also be used to
catch the two or three loops of the
diagonal brace wire.
Two inches above the ground on
the outside of the end post, drive a
staple for the brace wire. Leave 1/2”
Begin pulling the second fence wire out, stopping
along the way to install the brace wires for any
corners and at the other end assembly. At the far
end post, install a wraparound insulator before
tying off. This wire will be tied off in the same
manner as the guide wire (first wire). Remember,
this wire will have wraparounds on the corner posts
and tube insulators on the line posts. Count the
posts. Keep track of how many are on each side of
each corner. This will be important when threading
the tube insulators (one for each line post) and
wraparounds (one for each corner post) onto your
Cut the wire at the spinning jenny end post and
thread the proper number of 4-inch tube insulators
and wraparounds onto the wire in the order they
will be used. (This was figured when counting posts
between corners.) Include a few extra tubes in
case they are needed at the brace wire on the end
assemblies. They can be used to isolate your fence
wire where it might touch any brace wires. Staple
the bottom two wires to the posts. The staples
should be placed over the tubes with the flat side
against the post and the fins facing you. Drive the
staples until they compress the fins slightly, but not
so tight that they pinch the wire.
It is best to put staples horizontally above and
below the wraparound insulator rather than
straddling it. Finish installing wires, insulators and
Three complete wraps
in a figure eight using
Max-Ten 200
Guide Wire
x 8’ First Horizontal Brace
Brace Pins
Brace Pin
In-Line Strainer
x 8’ First Brace Post
x 8’
Gate Post
Mark desired post spacing on the ground 20 to 50
feet apart. Install remaining line posts about a half
inch away from the guide wire. Normally these
posts should be positioned so the animals push
the wire toward the posts; the wire should be on
the inside of the fence, closest to the animals. The
only exceptions are on the corners, where the wires
should be on the outside of the posts.
sticking out. Attach the wire to an in-line strainer
and make 2 complete diagonal loops around the
brace posts. These loops should cross each other in
a figure 8 shape. The staple should be holding the
wire at the base of the end post and the inch-long
stub of 3/8 inch x 10” brace pin should be holding
the brace wire up to the height of the brace rail on
the second post. Cut the wire and take up the slack
with the in-line wire tightener.