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1. Fence Charger 10. Portable Fence Post
2. Charger Ground System 11. Fence Rope, Twine/Tape
3. Diverter Ground System 12. Gate Handle & System
4. Lightning Protection 13. Gate Handle Hook-up
5. Underground Wire 14. Electric Fence Sign
6. Corner/End Post 15. Line Insulator, Wood Post
7. Cut Out Switch 16. Inline Wire Splicer
8. Corner/End Insulator 17. Inline Wire Tightener
9. Electrical Connector 18. T-Buckle/Insulator

This is an example material list to do a 15 acre square pasture (3280 feet of fence) with 3 strands of electrified rope. There are three corners with the fourth corner being two ends making a gateway. End and corner wood posts (5 inch diameter) do not need to be braced, but they should be 3.5 to 4.5 foot in the ground and well tamped if they have not been driven. Wood, (plastic step-in posts can be used), will be figured at 32 foot spacing. To make a strong connection, overlap 12" of rope, then at the midpoint place both strands into one side of the CWBT clamp. The rope ends should then be bent 180 degrees around the bolts and placed on the opposite side of the clamp. The extra strength comes from clamping rope against rope. You should retighten the fence with SSDR tighteners. To get good electrical connections, melt the rope about 2" from the ends, pull the plastic off, then twist the wires together from both ends and use a crimp sleeve or plastic wire nut.

To keep the horse safe from entanglement, you may prefer to have the clamp act as a fuse which will let loose at around 200 pounds. In this situation, just lay the ropes on each side of the clamp and snug it down. Placing posts at 10 foot spacing will also make the fence safer.

Rope makes an electric fence much more visible than wire or twine. It does not require braced end posts and it is easy to hand knot. Round rope doesn’t wind whip as much as electric ribbons and tapes so post spacing can be wider and the higher breaking strength allows it to handle much more abuse. Rope works great for making electric gates.

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